Long time no post. Sorry about that.
After a delightful week in Beijing, I left the pleasures and temptations of the big city and returned to the pleasures and temptations of the small village. Gongyi is truly small: no trip into town is complete without seeing a donkey cart laden with fresh farm goods (or not-so-fresh farm refuse). It’s surprising how sedate the animals are, considering they often are in the core downtown with cars and scooters zipping all around them. Then there’s the cacophony of muffler-free motors, horn-happy motorists, and of course the omnipresent loudspeakers blaring advertisements and cheesy Chinese disco onto the streets.
I live on the outskirts of town, a few kilometers away from this madness, and am further insulated by the quiet of the campus. The only noise I hear is the continual drone of what I assume to be cicadas, but these things are truly massive (about the length of my index finger and three times as wide), and the noise they emit matches their size. Relatively speaking, though, campus life is peaceful and mellow.
There are some inconveniences with living here. If I want some groceries, or a haircut, or a restaurant, or anything, I have to go into town. This requires an almost-kilometer walk to the front gates of the college, where I can (sometimes) catch a taxi. To walk into town requires about 45 minutes, and the return is most undesirable if you’re laden with a week’s worth of grocery and a flat of beer. So I did what everyone in Gongyi does: I bought some motorized transportation.
Now, what I bought isn’t exactly a scooter, and it isn’t exactly a motorcycle. It’s got a gas engine, and it’s got gears, but it lacks a clutch. The gas tank is situated under the seat, and it features a “step-through” design which facilitates carrying bulky objects between one’s knees. To further its cargo capacity, it features a handlebar basket and a rack on the back. Honestly the final feature was the selling point for me: I can never resist a nice rack.
In any case, I was confused as to what to call this machine, so as I always do when I need a fast answer, I turned to Google. As it turns out, my machine is known by the highly technical term of “underbone.” I suppose it refers to the fact that the main support beam of the frame is lower than a motorcycle (allowing the step-through mount, like a scooter), but it still has the larger wheels and power of a motorcycle. Here’s a picture:

Looking good on the Underbone!
Don’t you think I look good? Well, I know I look like a tourist, but that’s OK, because they’re actually quite common down here. I’ve even had some compliments! And finally, it was cheap … 3000 RMB brand new (including a helmet, rain jacket, rain cover for storage, and a lock), which is about $450. Not bad at all.
Anyways, this thing has really opened up the surrounding countryside for me. I’ve cruised all over the place, including a stretch along the nearby Yellow River (yes, it is yellow, believe it or not), and a jaunt up into some nearby mountains which were nothing less than stunning. It is now no hassle to grocery shop, and I can even carry friends around on the back (theoretically speaking … I have none now
). I also have had to opportunity to get a good look at real country life in China, and it is quiet the eye-opener. Modern places like Shanghai are a world apart from these rural farming villages, which are so small they even make Gongyi seem like a bustling urban center. The difference is so vast that it’s hard for us to imagine, because in Canada the difference between urban and rural is not so huge: we drive the same cars, have the same educational levels and standards, and live in the same culture. Not so in China. It’s like two entire different countries. I suspect most of the Chinese living in one of these two extremes can’t even imagine that such a polar opposite of lifestyle exists within their own country, let alone only a few hundred short kilometers away. Such is China.
Another thing worth mentioning is my trip up into the mountains. These mountains were truly fantastic in all their craggy glory, and are only a 10 minute ride away from my home! You wind your way up a beautiful valley, surrounded by rocky peaks which are intertwined with crumbling aqueducts of unknown age. Finally the end of the line is reached, and this is where I had a real surprise. There is a small, slow-running, rock-bottomed creek coming down the hills, and is no more than a foot deep and fifteen feet wide at it’s widest points. However, this seems to be a popular spot to cool off in the summer, and the place was filled with people. This in itself is not strange — everywhere is crowded in China — it was their behavior that raised my eyebrows.
Rather than parking on the gravel parking lot beside the creek, many people would opt to park right in the middle of it. There was no apparent reason I could discern, except for some enterprising individuals who were using their motorcycles to create a fountain of water, thus washing a car. Others, though, would just park in the creek, wade around for a while, then pack up and go. Then there were the fathers smoking and spitting in the water just upstream from where their children were splashing around. Then were the little kids pissing into the water as their parents encouraged them. Then were the drifts of litter caught in the weeds, and the broken glass on the rocky creek bed. I seriously can’t understand this behavior. I watched people throw chip bags into the creek (knowing full well, that there’s many people just downstream), and do all these things which in Canada would get you either a huge fine or a beat-down from your neighbors. I think that some connection (which we in Canada take for granted) is just not being made. I know that they litter and spit and piss everywhere else in China, but one would think that they would refrain in an oh-so-rare natural spot like this, especially one where other people are bathing! Whether it’s due to culture, poor education, or just not caring I don’t know, but I do know the results. Be thankful the next time you jump into a nice clean river or lake! Things could be a whole lot worse.
Anyways, tomorrow I head down to Shanghai to meet my old university buddy Connor, where we will brave the heat (lows of 36 degrees) and the lines (at least 3 hours each) of the World Expo. Wish us luck!